Digital Wanderer

We live as long as we fly

Montenegro — 9, Day 3, Black Lake and the town of Žabljak

Black Lake, despite its fame, looked rather modest. On the other hand, its maximum depth is a whopping 49 meters.

A man in blue swim trunks stands in the water near the rocky shore of a mountain lake with his back to the camera. In the background stretches a dense coniferous forest under a cloudy sky.

Max and Doomer went for a swim

An information board of Durmitor National Park in Montenegro, dedicated to Black Lake. The white shield features photos of the mountain lake surrounded by forests and rocks, as well as text descriptions in Montenegrin and English.

They write about the bifurcation of rivers

A mountain lake with turquoise water is surrounded by dense coniferous forest and majestic rocky peaks covered in snow. A small wooden sign is installed ahead on the sandy-rocky shore, with silhouettes of people visible in the distance.

When our buddies got into the water, the fishermen perked up and got anxious

Looks like only crazy "Russians" would swim in this freezing water. The sign on the board above says: "swimming at your own risk".

A group of men is resting on the grassy shore of a mountain lake against the backdrop of a coniferous forest and hills. One of the men is standing bare-chested in blue shorts, another is sitting in the foreground looking surprised at the camera, and the rest are situated nearby by the water.

And we're just sitting here chilling

A photo of a yellow-necked mouse on an information board, sitting on the forest floor and holding food in its paws, with accompanying text in English.

There are info boards around the lake, with what looks almost like my chinchilla on them

A young man in glasses and sportswear sits on a rock at the water's edge, looking thoughtfully at the camera. He has propped his chin on his hand, and his right foot is bare.

According to Andrey, Montenegro is a "special place"

A drawing of a green spider-like creature with long thin legs on a white building wall, reflected in a puddle in front of it.

We made it to Žabljak, had lunch, and stocked up on souvenirs

A quick brief on Žabljak, population 4204. The only interesting thing about it is that it's the highest situated settlement in the Balkans — 1456 meters. It lives off tourism: skiing in the winter, rafting and cycling in the summer. Mountaineering and hiking in all seasons.

The vendor at the magnet kiosk had some awesome Montenegrin rap playing, and I was too shy to ask what band it was, which I regret now. You should always just do what you want right away, otherwise later you'll be thinking, "Why didn't I just do that?"

Two people on a tandem bicycle with luggage ride along a paved road, with other people and bicycles standing nearby. Buildings with dormer windows and parked cars are visible in the background.

There's no shortage of cycling tourists here, there are even tandem riders

A light-colored pug with a black snout sits on concrete steps in front of the entrance to a store, where shelves with bottles of water and drinks are visible.

A rather sad-looking dog on the store's doorstep

Near the store we had lunch at the "Durmitor" restaurant. The food was decent, but the service was completely non-existent — we waited for a waiter for 20 minutes, and they didn't even bring everything we ordered. Dismal.

A view of a mountain road with a hotel on the left, two cyclists, and a dense forest. Snow-capped peaks are visible on the horizon under a cloudy sky.

Evening is drawing in, and we're rolling back

A man in glasses, a bicycle helmet, and a black t-shirt stands with a bicycle on a bridge against the backdrop of a picturesque mountain gorge covered with green forest.

We finally arrived at the bridge, so I'll tell you about it

The bridge is called the Đurđevića Tara Bridge, where the last two words are the name of the settlement formed by the farmsteads scattered around. The bridge is beautiful and large, connecting the roads going to Mojkovac (already familiar to us from the previous episode), Žabljak (familiar from this one), and Pljevlja.

A blue road sign with the inscription 'Rijeka Tara' is installed in front of a massive arch bridge across the Tara River. Beyond the bridge stretch forested mountain slopes covered with trees showing sparse spring greenery.

 

A high concrete arch bridge with a roadway and blue railings towers over a green valley. Forested mountains are visible on the horizon under a clear blue sky; a bus is driving across the bridge.

Side view

A curved concrete arch bridge stretches into the distance against the backdrop of hazy forested mountains. On the right in the foreground are road signs reading 'Rijeka Tara / Tara river'.

View from the other side of the bridge

A view from a cozy room with a beige sofa and a low table through a large wooden window flooded with sunlight. Outside the window, a panorama of a mountain valley opens up with a multi-arch bridge and green mountain slopes.

View of the bridge from the house

There's an interesting story with the bridge: the openwork structure was built in 1940. At the time, it was the largest concrete arch bridge in Europe: 365 meters long, the largest arch being 116 meters wide, and the height ranging from 140 to 172 meters above the Tara River, depending on who was measuring. The author of the project was a certain Isaac Russo.

But shortly after that, Italian fascists invaded the then-Kingdom of Yugoslavia, and the Germans followed suit. The bridge had to be blown up; this was done by communist partisans with the help of Lazar Jauković, one of the engineers who had built the structure. I can only imagine what a person who spent three years building such a man-made marvel felt when he realized he'd have to destroy it with his own hands. But war is war, and duty is duty. The engineer was eventually caught by the Italians and executed right in the very place where the bridge was. Interestingly, they didn't blow up the whole bridge, but only the widest arch, the one over the Tara. After the war, in 1946, it was rebuilt, and as you can see, a monument was erected not to the creator, but to the destroyer.

A stone monument to engineer Lazar Jauković made of gray stone blocks with a memorial plaque and a bouquet of flowers at the base. Forested green mountains are visible in the background under a cloudy sky.

That's just how people are wired: they are impressed by things that affect their emotions, and the strongest emotions are, after all, the negative ones. But we're going to try to turn the tide, look at the world positively, and therefore end the story on a beautiful panorama of the Tara River valley.

A deep mountain valley with a winding turquoise river flowing between forested rocky slopes. Several houses and green glades are visible on the right bank of the river under an overcast sky.